| Ongoing transformation in denim enables it to continue to be fashionable season after season. It is no longer only used for making trousers, even though we must remember trousers were instrumental in launching this fabric and making it successfully accepted by people of all ages. Statistics tell us that in everyone’s wardrobe, there is at least one clothing item made with denim. Though many professionals believe there is nothing new to invent, there are others – the majority – who see the challenge or re-interpreting denim to adapt it to all possible styles, from the most shabby-looking to the sophistication of glittering applications and colours, as happens with sequins or contrasting Lurex.
Modern consumers demand fashion, rebelliousness and originality, all at the same time, and denim esthetics are able to offer these three ingredients, thanks to the dynamics of an industry always innovating and offering new ideas, lending life to products in permanent evolution.
As to textures (properties and touch-sense), Lucra, elastomers, viscose and polypropylene, among others, may be associated to cotton to multiply properties such as flexibility, resistance, water-proofability, etc.
Then, a number of techniques, such as stone-washing, over-dying, ‘destroyed’ look, torn or worn looks, etc. enhance the fabric’s presence in all fashion shows, featuring extremes: sophistication, shabby, worn-looking, etc.
As demand for denim increases, there is a corresponding increase in demand for fancy clasps, which become indisputable partners in the clothing industry: zips, ribbons, applications...all of them contributing to the denim style seen as a whole, and generating more demand in markets, in a process that appears as endless.
Manel Arqués (Cremalleras Rubí): “The crisis foreseen for 2005 is already affecting us”
Cremalleras Rubí is sensitive to the dynamics of the Denim concept in fashion, as is revealed by the company’s adapting to demands every season (spring-summer or autumn-winter). They are currently broadening their offer with four new colours available in ribbons (on both sides), for denim-effect support for metal zips – 4.5 mm and 6 mm, thus increasing their application in sports-wear items, which may be combined with urban criteria.
The addition to their collection of personalized, ergonomically-designed medallions for all types of zips also significantly increases the number of choices, which the company has already presented at international trade shows, strengthening their presence in European markets including France, Italy, Portugal, Germany, Slovenia, Greece, the United Kingdom, etc. and Northern Africa: Tunis, Morocco. They are currently opening distribution channels in Eastern countries, without leaving aside their major share in national markets, this year representing about 35-37% of overall figures.
Based on their well-known quality/price ratio, they are supported by their strongest point: that of being able to respond to demand. Conventional orders are delivered in a 7-day term, while fantasy items or semi-manual items are delivered in 10 working days.
As to the ways in which 2005 might affect the sector, Manuel Arqués, Commercial Director of Cremalleras Rubí, states that “we are already feeling its effect”, and admits to be surprised at finding that a major portion of the textile industry is studying the ways in which companies will need to work to overcome the crisis foreseen. He is also surprised at finding publications do not communicate an essential part of the situation, as he answers the following: “The truth? Is anybody interested? Is it impossible to overcome?” He points out that “the products we used to produce here, we are now de-localizing towards Northern Africa and also Portugal (in Spain, many workshops had to close down, and some of them are struggling to survive). We are currently planning and developing projects in Eastern Europe, to the future participants of Europe-25, where costs are lower. But we still need to overcome the Eastern issue. We have one year left to develop strategies for survival. What are we going to do? Eastern products have been here for two years, already? Haven’t you seen them? Have you never heard of them? Gentlemen, how many Eastern-produced clothing items do you find in our stores, all over the city, in so many cities? And what about smaller stores? Let the truth be known! Chinese products, of all brand names and also lacking a brand name, were brought by us, two years ago. Our clients have switched to Chinese producers, ordering from them importing their products, placing their brand name tags on them, we know all about this, don’t we? The only ones to be affected by Eastern producers in 2005, are current clients, because they will sell at prices equivalent to that paid by them when buying today. Then, all others will have already closed down, or perhaps struggled and succeeded at surviving...though I really do not know how this will be done...there are only a few of us who know how to work...”
Coats Fabra (Olivier Dumollard): “We have developed a special ribbon for jeans”
Coats Fabra is aware of the need of offering markets a variety of fancy applications adapting to the fabric of each clothing item. Therefore, they have developed a range of zips focused on Denim as a theme, for they feel fashion trends point out this fabric as a classic in casual clothing, which means it is one of the major chapters in consumers’ wardrobes.
Coats Fabra also offers clients a wide range of top-quality yarns for the jeans-making sector: polyester, cotton-coated yarn (Coats dual duty), a highly resistant yarn with a natural look (it is known that cotton-coated yarn is ideal for use in automatic sewing machines used for making jeans); polyester, polyester-coated yarn (Coats epic), LFP yarn (Coats Ultimax), among others.
Olivier Dumollard, Head of Industry Marketing at coats, explains that “Coats is the second zips world supplier. In 2002, Coats Fabra introduced this new product in Spanish markets”.
The ribbon is available in 168 colours, identified by the same codes as yarns are, “Which minimizes the risk of hues not coinciding, thus making it easier for clients to purchase the material they need. The final esthetic result is enhanced by the coincidence of colours in yarn and ribbon”.
Coats offers two types of metal zips (4.5 mm and 6.0 mm), automatic runners (Fulda), semi-automatic runners (Flatlock), to meet the needs of today’s markets.
Juli Jacob (Alphabiais España): “Denim is ageless”
Out of a total of 300 references, bias bindings and ribbons based on the Denim esthetics make up about 5% of Alphabiais España’s overall production. However small in size, this portion is important among the collections featured by the company.
We interviewed Juli Jacob, manager of Alphabiais España, to know about fashion trends and also about the company’s offer. “Cotton bias bindings and poly-leather or patent leather ribbons ornamented with lock stitching, nailing, snap buttons, eyelets and die-cutting stand out among our products in this collection. These address all consumers, regardless of their age, in a style that has become almost a classic”, Jacob points out. This leads us to conclude that the current trend adapts to the needs and interests of various sectors within the market and that its added value resides in the fact of it being suitable for all seasons.
Mr. Jacob also says that “Denim is a theme that must be understood not just within the range of worn looks and blue colour. The latest trends show that there are many other colours in fashion: sand, red, pink or dark brown. All of these may also be treated to look worn or frayed, to good results”.
Alphabiasis takes part in all major European trade shows, each of its branches operating within its area. Mr. Jacob states that “Alphabiais España’s market is exclusively national”. When asked about the effects of free-market policies in 2005, his reply is to the point and needs no previous reflection. He believes “markets are already evidencing negative effects. Just see the crisis in the area of Maresme. The current situation may be regarded as chaotic, for de-localization of production is already here. Many companies are moving their production facilities to Portugal or Morocco. And this may be proved by the fact of many fabric-manufacturing companies having ceased to operate as manufacturers, to turn to Chinese fabrics which nevertheless carry their brand name tags and labels. This is the future of our fabric-manufacturing companies: that of becoming mere warehouses”.
Ana Rojas (Fornimaq): “Denim as a theme is the anti-thesis to minimalism”.
Clasps, buckles, brooches, rings, buttons, lace-ends, eyelets, snap fasteners , metal and plastic rivets...all of these items, among others, comprise Fornimaq’s offer to the clothing industry, and more specifically, to the denim-based sector.
Ana Rojas, Commercial Director of the company, tells us that “for the denim-based sector comprises snap fasteners, eyelets, D –rings and accessories available in various colours and finishes. The Denim trend is contrary to minimalism, which means we may add value to any item whatsoever”.
Of these items, then, which is the one regarded as most important? “Undoubtedly, metal colours applied to plastic items, and rubber finishes”, Ms. Rojas points out. These new collections by Fornimaq will be shown at the coming edition of Textilmoda, as we do with all novelties. It is a special occasion enabling us to contact national clients in person.
At the end of our interview, we wish to point out to her views on the Denim concept: “it is not actually a trend based on the young sector, but comprises all general concepts of fashion. Denim is, without doubt, a major style in fashion and clothing”.
Varmys Trading (Noelia Ferrer): “New denim forsakes the military, worn look”
We interview Noelia Ferrer, Marketing Director of Varmys Trading, to learn about her views on current trends for denim. According to her, “Denim enjoyed its peak moment, which lasted for some time, and then declined making depending companies re-structure their organizations as to production and size of staff. However, over the last few campaigns, denim has once again gained its position, inspired on techniques including dying, energy washing, elastic fabrics, etc...and leaving behind the former concepts of jeans and shirts only. Denim is once again fashionable, and will continue to be as long as designers know how to adapt the product to each season’s trends”.
We discuss the evident versatility of denim, as a fabric used year round. “As long as it is in reference to sports wear or casual wear, and depending on fabric composition, it may be adapted to different campaigns. It may also be used in the clothing industry catering to clients of all ages, and for both genders. Undoubtedly, denim has been wisely re-introduced in current trends, but with the added value of new fabric treatments, decorative applications and renowned brand name tags. Denim has once again become a protagonist in consumers’ wardrobes” Noelia Ferrer comments.
We wish to know what Grupo Varmy’s latest novelties will be for the coming season, and what their most important reference is. Ms. Ferrer points out that “new denim forsakes the former military, worn-out look, which is replaced with glamour. Our collections feature denim in a combination with glittering Lurex and other applications. We feature five collections, each focused on a given version. Ranges present applications in cardboard tags, knitted tags, printed ribbons, patches for trousers, warranty tags, and innovations in hanging tags. The first collection features reminiscences of the 1960s, with geometrical cuts and a major role given to white & black combinations. The second collection focuses on classic cuts, and comfort attained through elegance. The third one is inspired in movies such as “Matrix” and “Lara Croft”, while the fourth one brings out the metallic shine of applications. Our fifth collection is based on a sportive look”. At Varmys and Varmys Trading, they develop labeling sets for all clothing items, regardless of their type “however, we may perhaps point out that glitter and metal shine are a major reference, for these effects are ideal for technical fabrics”, Ferrer explains, adding that “consumers seek quality collections presented in the best of ways. So we need to appeal to companies such as Varmys, which means that labels and tags will not just reflect the price of a given item, but much more than that”.
The latest trends known, we ask Ms. Ferrer to tell us about the perspectives for the sector in 2005. She firmly states that “the elimination of barriers will mean there will be major changes. There may be pessimistic views, of course, but none of them place their stakes on the improvement of national production. It all points out to a declining process that started back in 1986. By 2010, 50% of what is currently consumed in national markets will correspond to products manufactured elsewhere. Which will lead to industrial re-conversion forcing companies to invest very strongly in I + D, de-localization of production processes, the creation of favorable institutional frames, etc. It seems that the Central Government is planning to devise support instruments to favor companies with the highest number of hired staff members, partially eliminating Social Security costs. But all of this is only a partial solution. We need to increase competitiveness outside national markets, because the results will depend on the strategies we adopt and our will”, Ferrer concludes, adding “We are already warned of it”.
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